Ford automatic transmission A4LD removal and installation - is a part of Ford repair manuals: Manual and Atomatic Transmissions. This part contains the detailed description of removal and installation works and all necessary transmission diagrams for Ford Aerostar, Ranger and Explorer automatic transmission A4LD.
Ford automatic transmission A4LD removal:
Disconnect the battery negative cable. Raise the vehicle on a hoist and position suitable safety stands under vehicle. Place a drain pan under the transmission fluid pan. On Explorer vehicles, pry the lower clips of transmission heat shield back slightly to allow access to pan bolts. Starting at the rear of the pan and working toward the front, loosen the attaching bolts and allow the fluid to drain. Then remove all of the pan attaching bolts except two at the front, to allow the fluid to further drain. After all the fluid has drained, install two bolts on the rear side of the pan to temporarily hold it in place. Remove the converter access cover from the converter housing. Remove one (1) bolt on the access cover of six-cylinder applications. Pivot / swing cover open. Remove the starter-to-converter housing attaching bolts and position the starter out of the way (note: on 2.9L and 4.0L engines, the converter attaching nuts are accessed through the starter motor mounting hole; on 2.3L engines, the converter attaching nuts are accessed through the cover on the engine oil pan.). Remove the four flywheel-to-converter attaching nuts by placing a 22 mm socket and breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt. Rotate the pulley clockwise (as viewed from the front) to gain access to each of the nuts (caution: on 2.3L belt-driven overhead cam engines, never rotate the pulley in a counterclockwise direction.). Scribe a mark indexing the driveshaft to the rear axle flange. Remove the driveshaft (Ford repair manuals: Driveline) and install the extension housing seal replacer tool in the extension housing.
Remove the speedometer cable from the extension housing. Disconnect the shift cable at the transmission manual lever. Remove the kickdown cable from the ball stud lever. Depress the tab on the cable downshift retainer and remove the cable from the bracket. Disconnect the neutral start switch wires and the converter clutch solenoid connector. Remove the vacuum line from the transmission vacuum modulator. Position a transmission jack under the transmission and raise it slightly. Remove the engine rear support-to-crossmember bolts. Remove the crossmember-to-frame side support attaching bolts and remove the crossmember insulator and support and damper. Refer to Ford repair manuals: Engine/Transmission Mounting. Lower the jack under the transmission and allow the transmission to hang. Position a jack to the front of the engine and raise the engine to gain access to the two upper converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts on Ford Ranger and Ford Explorer vehicles. Disconnect the oil cooler lines at the transmission. Plug all openings to keep out dirt. Remove the lower converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts. Remove the transmission filler tube. Secure the transmission to the jack with a safety chain. Remove the two upper converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts. Move the transmission to the rear so it disengages from the dowel pins and the converter is disengaged from the flywheel. Lower the transmission from the vehicle (note: if the transmission is to be removed for a period of time, support the engine with a safety stand and wood block.).
Ford automatic transmission A4LD installation:
Position the converter to the transmission making sure the converter hub is fully engaged in the pump gear. To accomplish this, push and rotate the converter until two bumps are felt. Keep pushing and rotating until dimension "A" shown below, is reached (note: make sure the torque converter rotates freely and is not bound up; dimension "A" should be: min. 10.23 mm; max. 14.43 mm.). With the converter properly installed, place the transmission on the jack and secure with a safety chain.
Rotate the converter so the drive studs are in alignment with their holes in the flywheel. With the transmission mounted on a transmission jack, move the converter and transmission assembly forward into position being careful not to damage the flywheel and the converter pilot. During this move, to avoid damage, do not allow the transmission to get into a nose down position as this will cause the converter to move forward and disengage from the pump gear. The converter housing is piloted into position by dowels in the rear of the engine block. The converter must rest squarely against the flywheel. This indicates that the converter pilot is not binding in the engine crankshaft. Install two converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts at the engine dowel locations. Tighten to 38-51 N-m (28-38 ft-lb) for 2.3L, 2.9L and 4.0L or to 44-60 N-m (33-44 ft-lb) for 3.0L engine. Install the remaining converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts and tighten to 38-51 N-m (28-38 ft-lb) for 2.3L, 2.9L and 4.0L or to 44-60 N-m (33-44 ft-lb) for 3.0L engine. Remove the safety chain from the transmission. Insert the filler tube in the stub tube and secure it to the cylinder block with the attaching bolt. Tighten the bolt to 38-51 N-m (28-38 ft-lb). If the stub tube is loosened or dislodged, it should be replaced. Install the oil cooler lines in the retaining clip at the cylinder block. Connect the lines to the transmission case. Remove the jack supporting the front of the engine. Raise the transmission. Position the crossmember, insulator and support and damper to the frame side supports and install the attaching bolts. Refer to Ford repair manuals: Engine / Transmission Mounting, for torque specifications for the engine in the vehicle. Lower the transmission and install the rear engine support-to-crossmember nut. Refer to Ford repair manuals: Engine / Transmission Mounting, for torque specifications for the engine in the vehicle. Remove the transmission jack. Install the vacuum hose on the transmission vacuum diaphragm. Install the vacuum line into the retaining clip. Connect the neutral start switch plug to the switch. Install the converter clutch/3-4 shift solenoid connector. Install the four flywheel-to-converter attaching nuts. When assembling the flywheel to the converter, first install the attaching nuts and tighten to 27-46 N-m (20-34 ft-lb). Install the converter access cover and adapter plate bolts. Tighten the bolts to 16-22N-m (12-16 ft-lb). On 2.3L engines, tighten the oil pan access cover bolts to 2.5-3.6 N-m (22-32 in-lb). Install the starter and tighten the attaching bolts to 20-27 N-m (15-20 ft-lb). Connect the muffler inlet pipe to the exhaust manifold if disconnected for removal. Connect the transmission shift cable to the manual lever. Connect the downshift cable to the downshift lever. Install the speedometer cable as described in Ford repair manuals: Speedometer / Odometer, Electric. Install the driveshaft so the marks scribed on the driveshaft and rear axle flange are in alignment. Tighten the companion flange U-bolt attaching nuts to 95-130 N-m (70-95 ft-lb). Adjust the manual and downshift cables as required. Remove safety stands and lower the vehicle. Connect the battery negative cable (note: on vehicles equipped with EEC, when the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the EEC processor relearns its adaptive strategy; the vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles or more to relearn the strategy.). Fill the transmission to the proper level with the specified fluid. Pour in five quarts of fluid; then run the engine and add fluid as required. Check the transmission, converter assembly and oil cooler lines for leaks.
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